Recently, I traveled to Zambia to explore the South Luangwa and experience the rich game it so proudly boasts. I soon learned that the South Luangwa National Park does in fact offer a vast abundance of game with no shortage of unexplored, unspoiled wilderness.
After staying at Mfuwe Lodge for one night, we were met by our guide Manda Chisanga who drove us the back way to Bilimungwe. The night before we had been drenched with 2 inches of rain, so getting there was impossible using the short route. Our drive took us up over the mountains and was about a 2.5 hour drive. I was excited to meet Manda as he was joint-winner of Wanderlust Magazine’s Paul Morrison guide of the year award in 2006 and had quite a reputation of being a very good safari guide. Manda was charming, well-mannered and very knowledgeable about the area and shares his passion for this beautiful area. I learned so much with Manda on one of our walking safaris and if you are lucky enough to have the opportunity to walk with him, you will appreciate his ability to explain a safari life in detail.
Bilimungwe has recently been through a major renovation and is looking stunning. It is set in a riverine woodland environment with sausage trees, evergreen Natal mahogany trees, tall Winterthorn trees overlooking three waterholes where the hippo come and munch away at night. During the day, the waterhole was visited by a family of warthogs that gave me much entertainment as I sat on my deck and watched them. Also visiting were baboons, puku, impala and plenty of bird life. Even a family of elephant arrived to have a drink before walking through the camp and between the chalets.
Bilimungwe only has 4 chalets which cater to a maximum of 8 people. The rooms are beautiful and I did not want to leave; very spacious and luxurious, with handcrafted wood sinks, showers and vanities. I particularly loved having a cold shower outside on the balmy hot afternoons before going out for my game drive.
Mike, the camp manager is wonderful and an excellent host. I was very impressed with his desire to be more “solar” friendly. On one occasion he brought out the solar stove and baked fresh bread for lunch. It was scrumptious! The meals are served family style, which is an easy way to get to know everyone in a relaxed and casual environment – especially if you are a solo traveler. On our first night, Mike and his team prepared a delicious three course meal for us and then we got to enjoy an evening of peaceful stargazing – what a treat.
Our game drives with Manda were exhilarating and exciting. Of course we all wanted to find that elusive leopard and so off we went in search… Manda can tell that there is leopard activity around and tells us he smells something. Eventually he points and calmly says, “see that”. Of course none of us had seen anything, but we take his word for it and up we travel in the vehicle to go and see it! There hanging in the arms of a sausage tree is an impala carcass. No leopard is to be found anywhere though. And who do we see next, coming down the road – a sneaky and very excited hyena. No leopard is to be found anywhere though.
After having a much needed siesta and of course my cold shower, it was time to head back to find our leopard. As is the case in the African bush, not everything goes the way you want it to go. We arrived after dark (and too dark to share photographs, sorry!) to find the hyena with our leopard’s prize catch but still no sign of the leopard. But Manda would not let us down. He continued to search when out of the corner of his eye saw a tail move in the long golden grass. After sitting for a while, the leopard got up and moved herself towards the Sausage tree to see if she could find any remains of her kill. It was amazing to see her sniff, look upwards in a hopeful way, sniff again, and then move away knowing that it was time to move on and find another source of food. What an experience it was to witness this scene.
Our next stop is Chindeni, but I will never forget our time at Bili – located in a truly beautiful and remote part of the world … where you feel completely a part of the nature that surrounds you. There are no other vehicles to come across making you feel like you have this special part of the world all to yourself. The scenery in November is so different than any I have been in during the green season. The water levels are very low and we found ourselves spending a lot of time on the very dry river beds (sometimes getting stuck!). But so beautiful.
Have you ever been on an African safari to South Luangwa National Park in Zambia? We would love to hear your highlights of your trip and please do visit us on Facebook and post some photographs of your trip.
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