If you’ve ever considered going on safari, I urge you to consider a walking safari.
Yes, I know it can certainly be an intimidating prospect at first. You’re in the African bush, far from the familiar, and the idea of walking in the bush instead of the safely of a vehicle can feel a bit … raw. But having just returned from Robin Pope’s Mobile Walking Safari Camp in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, I can honestly say it was one of the most fantastic and immersive travel experiences I’ve ever had. And even after leaving, I wish I could have stayed for longer! It was that good.
Staying in the Wild
Our time in the mobile camp was very short, sadly only two nights, but they still had enough time to blow me away! The entire camp is pretty much off the grid and is completely mobile, which means it is taken down and rebuilt every few days as you walk to the next site. And yet, it somehow manages to feel luxurious while still very much in the bush.
The tents are spacious and comfortable, with proper beds and solar lamps. You can even take a hot bucket shower under the trees! Meals are freshly prepared over an open fire and coals (we even had birthday cake prepared in a ground oven one night!!). And the staff are incredibly warm, welcoming, and endlessly accommodating. They definitely made camp feel like a home no matter how far away we were from home.
Day 1: Into The Bush
After a few hours’ drive into South Luangwa, we stopped for a packed lunch, arriving at the mobile camp in time for an orientation and a home-cooked lunch. Given that the entire kitchen is run on coals and wood, the lunch wowed me and could easily compete with places that work on a full kitchen with the newest of gadgets.
That afternoon, we set off on our first walk after a detailed safety briefing. On a walking safari you can see a whole lot more than you can on the back of a game vehicle for the precise reason that you see a whole lot less on the back of a vehicle. Because you take your time and look. Spending your time observing spoor, studying termite mounds, examining plants and spotting and tracking animals with all of your senses.
While walking, we had an adrenaline-spiking encounterwith a breeding herd of elephants. One of the mothers smelled us and wasn’t thrilled we were so close to her baby. But our guide, Kanga, and the wildlife police officer who accompanied us anticipated the entire situation and were calm and totally in control. At no point did I feel unsafe.
We ended the walk with a surprise sundowner overlooking the Luangwa River. That night, back in camp, we showered, ate another phenomenal meal, and sat around the fire under a brilliant, starlit sky.
Day 2: A Camp That Follows You
We woke early, packed our bags, and enjoyed coffee and a light breakfast before setting off on foot again, this time with a destination — our next camp!
After walking for a few hours, we had a tea break beneath a giant tree with a family of giraffe watching us safely in the distance. As we packed up our snack, we noticed that the giraffe were even edging closer and closer and had even followed us while we were watching a group of zebras, being very curious. We walked a bit further after tea, when suddenly we found our new campsite. Amazingly, like magic, the entire camp had beat us there! Tents were rebuilt, the bar was back in place, and lunch was nearly ready.
That afternoon, we spotted a lioness sprinting across the riverbed chasing a puku, which set the tone for our afternoon walk. Later, while tracking the rest of her pride’s movements, a male lion suddenly rose from the tall grass just meters away and darted off. We must have scared him awake from his afternoon nap. Heart pounding, we spent the rest of the evening’s walk with the strange sensation that we were being watched from a distance.
After that adventure, we met up with the camp manager and barman for sundowners, once again in front of a stunning riverbed backdrop. Another perfect evening in the bush.
Day 3: Goodbye for Now
After breakfast, we said a reluctant goodbye to the incredible staff and the wild haven we had called home for the past few days. This was a new kind of experience for me, that I just know I will be crazing the next time I step off the long series of flights from North Carolina to Southern Africa. There’s just something about moving through the landscape on foot, feeling the ground under your boots, and hearing the sounds of birds and grass without a car’s engine to drown them out.
Final Thoughts:
I would highly highly recommend this to anyone who wants to experience a side of Africa that so many people miss. It is such an incredibly intimate experience for all travelers who really want to see it all. Those who are not content with a photo from the back of a vehicle, but need to be in it.
I can’t wait to return. And next time, I’m staying for longer!